Text with pictures: http://sanderva.blogspot.com
Email address: vanhulsenbeek@wxs.nl
We had 4 days of glorious weather, including the appropriate clouds at the first pass, and fog in the Cloud Forest. But a great view of the Vilcabamba Range here at the Sayacmarca Ruins in the third day. The first time I walked this trail - 27 years ago, and about that later - the ruins were covered with vegetation and a little more romantic as they are now, beautifully restored. Never mind, this way they will be better preserved:
That 27 years ago, the weather was not so good, in January, and actually we had rain all four days. Here is a picture of that time, on the second day, in the first hours up to the first pass. Quite steep and evidently time for a break:
Now, in retrospect, that walk must have been something. I was more or less acclimatized but totally unprepared, never been in relatively remote mountains, carrying 25 kilos, with an oldfashioned tent ( Erdman Schmidt's " de Mier", I Think) , no walking sticks, no "never cold, never warm, never wet" polyester clothes, just a Levy shirt and jeans. No wonder I look a little baffled here! Now a much happier picture, in the modern age and on the first pass, taken by our great guide Ruben:
But the campsites were quiet in 1979, different from today in the high-season, when the limit of 500 people, including porters and staff is reached. Amazingly, you do not see them all. Before the new regulations, imposed in 2001, some days more than 2000 people started on a single day. Chaos ensued. The damage done then can still be seen, like at the little lake before the second pass above Runcuracay Ruins. So kudos here for the authorities!
After the Intipunku Sungate, just after the glorious first view of Machu Picchu we had an (expected) surprise: Remquito Dalkmann joined us for the walk-out, as he had arrived the night before in Aguas Calientes with his SNP-group. Here is the proof! And also you can see how the Inca Trail now is kept in good order, but somehow a little wider as I remember ......
So there were the last days in Peru. We stayed for one night in Ollantaytambo, to visit the ruins in the morning, and they are truly amazing. But even nicer is the little village, of which the center has not changed much since Inca times. Pictures to be published on my website.
The morning of our flight back to Lima: surprise; Rain! The first in our time in Peru. The flight was on time though, and so was KLM in the evening. Unruffled despite the Heathrow scare, and we were only checked for bottles with liguid. But Remko's group, who had to fly via Miami and London ...............
Thanks for your patience, and for your mail. This Weblog will remain active, but the mail via Google groups will stop for now. Ciao! Sander and Ger.
